Pre-Performance Routines

By Dr. Anna Enright, DNP, PCNS-BC

“When I’m in the chair right before my climb I tell myself 'Let’s go! You got this!' I focus on putting on my shoes. I get up when I have 40 seconds left on the clock and do 3 or 4 jumping jacks to get my blood flowing and then take some deep breaths. This routine helps me know it’s go-time.” 

Establishing a pre-performance routine is helpful for athletes to manage the uptick in energy experienced before a performance or a competitive event. Pre-Performance Routines (PPRs) are a series of thoughts and actions that help the athlete stabilize and control their mental chatter, emotions, and behaviors before an important event (Cotterill, 2010). Adopting a routine in preparation for a big day helps athletes regulate emotions, connect to strengths, manage unhelpful thoughts, and direct attention to the task at hand to facilitate an optimal performance. PPRs have been found to be most helpful in autonomous events as they provide athletes a supportive focus to return to. The routine centers the athlete when they are inevitably distracted by happenings which shift their attention away from the task at hand.  

An effective PPR includes rituals that result in: 

  1. Self-regulation of thoughts and emotions needed to complete the athletic task at hand

  2. Narrow and sustained concentration 

  3. Ideal confidence/self-efficacy

  4. A quiet mind

  5. A simplified set of behaviors prior to and during the competition which becomes routine

  6. Automating the above processes to allow for effortless and successful performance

Singer (2002)

It’s important to remember that in the weeks or days before a big event the bulk of the training period is over! One is not going to significantly improve on technique or strength in the immediate days prior to a competition. This is the time for each athlete to hone and practice their individualized PPRs. A plan for this in-between period is an important part of the preparation. The in-between period refers to the days between when the hard work is done and the competition or event.

Most of the athletes I’ve worked with don’t quite know where to put their focus during this time. They want to bring their A game to the performance, however in this in-between period, self-doubts and uncertainties creep in. PPRs will place the attention on those skills needed to bring our best each day, whatever that looks like. Expecting we will be going into big moments with our A game 100% of the time is both unattainable and counterproductive. Some days, we may show up at 80% capacity. PPR’s enable us to give 100% of our 80%; the goal is to increase our chances of being as good as possible in that moment! 

Now that we understand what a PPR looks like in theory, let’s explore what it is in practice. Remember the goal of PPRs is to identify what comes up and have a plan to stay constructive. In competition climbing it may help to create several PPR scripts which are tailored to different mindsets leading up to the event.


A PPR script for:

The weeks prior to a competition: 

The goal is to calm the mind as it begins to anticipate the event. During this time it’s important to make sleep a priority. Redirect negative chatter and worry by staying present, meditating, connecting with friends, making a gratitude list, and/or practicing self-kindness.

When a climber is in Isolation:

The goal is to flood the brain with success thoughts and focus on a physical warm up routine. Shift the focus on your body sensations as you warm up. Check out our article, "Building Confidence and Self-Belief in our Abilities to Perform" for more information!

When a climber is in competition:

The goal is to stay focused and present from the moment the climber comes out of isolation to completion of the final climb. Have a few phrases ready to remind you to stay present, let go of mistakes and engage with each climb. 


A PPR can be as simple as:

  1. A playlist of songs that gets you in a state of readiness. Do you need a playlist which gets you excited, or one which settles your energy?

  2. One or two phrases reminding you of your strengths: "I’ve worked hard." "I’m determined and focused!" "Just climb." "I got this!" "One move at a time!" "I’m grateful I get to climb." "Focus on foot placement." "Focus on my hands." "Let go and reset." "Still in it." "Onto the next climb!"

  3. Grounding yourself in the moment when your attention drifts For example, when you catch yourself distracted, feel your breath, feel your feet, look at your hands to come back to the present moment.

  4. A warm up routine which includes both physical readiness (warm up skills) and psychological readiness (regulates emotions with breath work, shifting attention to the present and connect with the go-to phrases to optimize your performance mindset).

  5. Regulating your sleep schedule in the weeks prior to a big event.

Download Hidden Crux's free Pre-Performace Routine Worksheet here!


Resources:

Singer, N. R. (2002). Pre-performance state, routines, and automaticity: what does it take to realize expertise in self-paced events? J. Sport Exerc. Psychol. 24, 359–375. doi: 10.1123/jsep.24.4.359

Cotterill, S. T. (2010). Pre-performance routines in sport: current understanding and future directions. Int. Rev. Sport Exerc. Psychol. 3, 132–153. doi: 10.1080/1750984x.2010.488269

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